WHAT TO WEAR ON A WHALE-WATCHING TRIP - A SKIPPER'S GUIDE

Passengers preparing for a winter whale-watching trip in northern Norway, wearing flotation suits, goggles and warm layers.

I work as a whale-watching skipper in Northern Norway, up in the Arctic Circle, and passengers ask this question on almost every trip. Even on calm sunny days the wind chill factor on a fast-moving boat can make it feel much colder than people expect. Here's what I recommend wearing to stay warm and comfortable on a whale-watching trip.

These clothing tips apply not just to Norway, but to whale-watching trips in many cold-weather destinations around the world - from Iceland and Greenland to Alaska and Canada.

1. A warm, windproof and waterproof jacket. Wind and sea spray can quickly make you feel cold.

2. Warm layers. Fleece can be ok, but wool works the best.

3. Warm trousers. You might be able to get away with jeans in the summer, but not in the winter.

4. Hat, buff and gloves. Always in winter, weather dependent in the summer.

5. Warm and preferably waterproof shoes. Flip flops - definitely not!

6. Sunglasses or goggles. Depending on the season.

The amount of layers and the type of jacket can depend a lot on which time of the year you are out at sea. It will come as no surprise that the winters in Norway require more layers, with temperatures sometimes dropping as low as -15°C (5°F) in places like Skjervøy (70°N). This is also a good time to mention the wind chill factor. When you're travelling on a fast-moving RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat), the air rushing past you increases heat loss from your body, making it feel much colder than it actually is. So, if the temperature is -10°C (14°F) and the boat is travelling at 20 knots, it will feel more like -20°C (-4°F)! The same applies in the summer, and this is why the right clothing is so important.

Don't whale-watching companies provide suits to wear? Isn't that enough? If you're going out to sea on a RIB, which is very popular for whale-watching here in Norway, the company will provide you with a flotation suit and these are usually lined to keep you warm, to a degree. So in the summer you might be able to get away with a jumper or a light jacket underneath, but in the winter you will definitely need layers and a good coat on under the suit.

The suits are also water resistant, but not waterproof, so if you're out on a choppy day and there's sea spray and/ or rain you might find that water gets through. So I also recommend protecting your mobile phones and cameras.

So let's look at summer and winter recommendations.

Summer

The air at sea is colder than on land during the day, so while you might be enjoying some nice sunshine and not much wind on land before your trip, the cooler sea air and the wind chill factor can make quite a difference. A temperature of 18°C on land can feel more like 10°C when we're doing 20 knots. If the sun is shining on a nice summer's day you might get a bit warm when we stop to look at a whale, but personally I'd rather be a little too warm than too cold so I usually err on the side of warm layers. Worst case scenario - you can always take a layer off. The key to both summer and winter trips is layering.

1. A windproof and waterproof jacket is ideal. There are many jackets that can be suitable for a summer trip. In northern Norway, as the summers aren't usually very hot, I would recommend a hiking jacket or anything that protects you from wind and sea spray. You might be lucky and get a calm day at sea with no sea spray and no rain - or you might not! If you don't already have something suitable, outdoor retailers such as Decathlon and Intersport have a good range to choose from.
   

2. Warm layers. Fleece is good, but wool works the best even in the summer. Wool regulates body temperature and is moisture-wicking. There are lighter summer options available, including short-sleeved base layers. Merino wool is a great base layer and is suitable for people with sensitive skin, like me. Fleece can also be a good option because it is lightweight, warm and dries quickly if it gets damp from sea spray or sweat. Layering is the key so a merino wool base layer with a fleece mid layer works well. Cotton isn't a great idea, unless you're lucky with the weather and it stays warm and sunny throughout the trip, and there's not a lot of sea spray. Cotton absorbs moisture (sweat or rain), loses all insulating ability when damp and it dries very slowly, which can lead to rapid heat loss.
   

3. Warm trousers. Jeans can be ok in the warmer months but, as they're made from cotton, they're not very good at insulating you, especially if they get wet. However, in the summer they should be ok if it's a dry and warm day, and the sea is calm (less sea spray), especially as you'll have the flotation suit over the top. The better option would be some hiking trousers, which are usually windproof and offer some level of insulation as well. I wear a pair of windproof shell trousers with a light merino wool base layer underneath. Comfortable, breathable and temperature regulating.
   

4. Hat, buff and gloves. Depending on the weather, especially as Norwegian summers are unpredictable, you may find yourself wanting to wear a hat, a buff and even some gloves (preferably windproof and waterproof). During the summer months in the Arctic Circle there are 24 hours of daylight, so we go out to sea in the evenings too. This is when it can get surprisingly cold and you'll be glad of these extras.
   

5. Warm and preferably waterproof shoes. While flip flops and sandals are a great choice on land in the summer, they won't keep you warm on a RIB. Nor will high heels (yes, that happened!). A good choice would be some waterproof trainers or hiking shoes. When it's warm enough, these boots from Grundéns are my favourite - totally waterproof and the most comfortable deck boot I've ever owned. For waterproof hiking shoes, I like the Gore-Tex range from Salomon. Like this pair.
   

6. Sunglasses. In the summer, even on dull or overcast days, sunglasses are a good idea to bring with you. For one thing, when we are travelling at speed, they protect your eyes from the wind - you can't see any whales if your eyes are watering! And when the sun is out, you also get extra glare from the sunlight reflecting off the surface of the water. This can be blinding and very tiring for the eyes. A good summer option would be polarised sunglasses. This pair from Bliz are my go to sunglasses in the summer. Lightweight, comfortable and the polarised lenses are fantastic.
   

7. Sunscreen. Even if it's overcast, I would recommend wearing sunscreen. As mentioned earlier with the sunglasses, the reflection of sunlight from the sea increases sun exposure, so sunscreen is smart. This is especially true on calm, sunny days when the sea acts like a mirror. Nowadays there are some excellent options that are reef friendly and fine for sensitive skin.
   

8. Optional extras and accessories. I recommend taking a waterproof pouch for your phones, preferably one with a lanyard. There are lots on Amazon, I use this one. If your phone is waterproof (this may not be the case with sea water - you've been warned!), then at least a lanyard for your phone. We see a lot of phones slipping through customers' fingers and lost forever in the sea. I've had this one for years and it's never failed me.

   The same for your cameras, sometimes there's a lot of sea spray. A drybag is great for when you're not using it, or at least a plastic bag. If it's a wet day, a small towel can come in very handy to dry it off before putting it away again. I use Cressi drybags. See here. If you have an expensive camera and lens, and want more protection, I highly recommend Peli cases. I use this one for my camera, but they come in lots of different sizes.

Winter

As you can imagine, going out on a RIB in northern Norway during the winter is a very cold affair. With temperatures sometimes dropping as low as -15°C (5°F) in places like Skjervøy (70°N), a hotspot for winter whale-watching, you need to make sure that you have adequate clothing. And if that isn't cold enough, you of course have the added wind chill factor. Remember, you'll be out at sea for 2 to 3 hours and sitting down, it might start to snow!, the wind could pick up, and you can get damp from sea spray :) so good gear is your friend in order to stay warm for the duration of the trip.

1. A very warm coat. A ski jacket, for example, is an excellent option. These temperatures are no joke and being out at sea for hours, exposed to the elements, can be challenging. And yes you will wear your coat under the flotation suit - don't go thinking that this will be too much!
   

2. Warm layers. The winter is when layering comes into its own and is very important. Wool, wool and more wool - that's your best option. It's warm, moisture-wicking, antimicrobial, and wool will keep you warm, even when it's wet. It's also a natural, hard-wearing and biodegradable fibre. - The rule of thumb is a merino wool base layer, non itchy and comfortable against the skin. - Then the middle layer, also wool, but a thicker layer - my favourite brand for this is a Norwegian brand called Aclima. Their fleecewool jumpers are amazing - non itchy, cosy and 100% wool. - I also wear a third wool layer - a more chunky hard wearing jumper. My preference here is from an iconic Norwegian brand, called Devold. Their Svalbard jumper, for example, is very hard wearing and functional. I've worn mine to work in, for years, and it's still in great condition. The key here is making sure that there are gaps between the layers, as this traps the heat and keeps you warm. Tight clothing won't allow for this.

   This may seem like a lot of wool, which has a higher price point than fleece. But wool is pricier than fleece for a reason - it naturally has technical properties that other fibres struggle to match, and these are beautifully crafted, eco-friendly pieces that can last you for many years to come. Wool is warm, naturally antimicrobial and odor-resistant, and it keeps you warm even when wet. I could go on and on about wool! I'm a total convert. If you enjoy outdoor activities on a regular basis, it's well worth the investment and will come in handy time after time. And if you do buy a classic jumper, you'll also have an authentic Norwegian souvenir. Alternatives if it's a one-off outdoorsy trip? If you want to keep the price down because this is a one time adventure, you can opt for cheaper fleece options, just make sure you layer properly. Another option is to look for wool options on second hand sites. In Norway they use an app called Tise, there are many many wool pieces on there at reduced prices. Other options in the EU include - Vinted, ebay, Depop, Sellpy, Wallapop. Happy hunting!
   

3. Warm trousers. Jeans are a no no in the winter, you will get very cold and if you get wet your body temperature will drop uncomfortably. Better options are winter hiking trousers with a base layer underneath, or ski trousers - windproof with good insulation. If the temperature is below freezing I would recommend a merino wool base layer underneath the ski trousers too. When the temperatures are this low I wear a mesh base layer, then a merino wool layer, then some windproof trousers over the top.
   

4. Warm hat, buff and gloves. These are indispensable on a winter trip. I'd even recommend a balaclava, I use one when I'm driving the RIB, with a hat over the top and a buff. I can't impress upon you enough how cold it can be out there. When it comes to gloves, you need more than one pair really - back to layering. I use a liner glove and a thick, warm, windproof and waterproof glove on top. I even take a second pair of gloves in my drybag - when the first pair gets damp your hands will get cold, so having a second, dry pair in reserve is a game changer.
   

5. Warm and waterproof shoes. You lose a lot of heat from your feet and when you're sitting on a RIB in freezing temperatures, you need to keep your feet as warm as possible. Proper winter boots are needed and they should be waterproof. The likelihood is that you'll get some sea spray coming into the boat, and having cold and wet feet is very unpleasant and can really have an effect on your overall body temperature. You haven't travelled all that way to have it ruined by being very cold. Wool socks are a great addition too, these socks from Devold are my favourites. These boots from Mountain Warehouse are a good example of a warm, waterproof option.
   

6. Goggles not sunglasses. With the freezing air you really need to protect your eyes, especially when we're going fast. Ski goggles are ideal and are what I use every day. Goggles with low light lenses are readily available, yellow or clear/ transparent are best for the low light winter conditions. Amazon and sports stores stock them. If you're budget conscious, even a pair of see-through safety goggles could do the trick. I never go out without a pair of goggles. Some companies will provide you with goggles, but not all, best to check. I bought some from the ski brand Bollé on Amazon. See here.
   

7. Optional extras and accessories. See suggestions from the summer list. I would also add hand and feet warmers to the list in the winter, HotHands on Amazon for example.

FAQs

• Can I get away with fleece instead of the more expensive wool in the summer? Yes, as the temperatures are not below freezing.

• Is cotton ok? In the colder months it's a no no. Cotton is not suitable for cold weather because it absorbs moisture (sweat or rain), loses all insulating ability when damp and it dries very slowly, which can lead to rapid heat loss and severe risks like hypothermia.

• Why is wool better? Wool is better because it regulates body temperature and can keep you warm even when it's wet.

• Should layers be tight or loose? Layers should be on the loose side. Tight layers usually mean less warmth. If there are gaps between the layers, the warmth has somewhere to sit.

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